Moorish castles & ham smugglers

Moorish castles & ham smugglers

A trip to the southern most interior part of Alentejo is a trip straight into Portugal’s Moorish roots. On the Spanish border, where miles and miles pass with only cicada-song as company, the Castle of Noudar (Castelo de Moura in Portuguese) lies between the winding...
Fishermen’s feast

Fishermen’s feast

Fishermen’s feast A trip to a Portuguese fish market is staggering. Fish of all colors, shapes and sizes nestle up to shrimp the size of my hand, barnacles (called percebes) that taste so intensely and purely of the sea, and all manners of octopus, squid and...